Rear shackle install on a ’40 – page 2 – the ford barn x men electricity mutant


Philip; Wow! Sure seems like you are encountering unheard of problems. At this point, I would unbolt the spring from the U-bolts and then try to install the shackles. electricity videos for students Then, reinstall the spring into the U-bolts and cross member. However, that spring should have some free play and be able to move around before securing it tightly with U-bolts. it’s not a precision assembly.

DO NOT install a 9 in rear, especially the much praised Lincoln Versailles. ( 9 inchers are too wide and will require new backspacing. Plus, they are extremely heavy, require installation of a new drive line and will make your car ride like a truck. Very stiff. I know this because my friend did it. Plus, they look too big (ugly) and out of place. You will be opening a whole new can of worms. If you really feel you must change out the rear and driveline, go with an 8 inch.

Easy for me to say but, take a break from what you are now doing and then come back refreshed and less frustrated. Try and regard it as a personal challenge. gas jet Others have overcome this and you will too. Is there something inside the cross member causing the spring to not seat properly. Is the center section too high and hits hitting the edge of cross member? Is your spring spreader rubbing against the center section? Has the torque tube moved a tiny bit backward or forward? I realize these are goofy questions but, think, think, think. Could be something very simple like, your spring spreader being maxed out or slipping.

Normally, the spring rests on what looks like a canvass pad to prevent squeaking. electricity production by source I used a piece of .090 alum sheet instead. Send me more photos from many different angles and I’ll post them for you. As they said in the 60’s, "We shall overcome". basic electricity quizlet Don’t give up. It was all together when you took it apart and it will be all together when you put it back together. If I lived near you, I would be glad to hel. Any fordbarners or AACA folks near you?

One thing many of you haven’t dealt with is a wagon rear spring. I have, and can attest it can be quite a bit more difficult then a regular passenger car due to the added number of leaves. That said, putting the shackles in can be done. gas key bolt carrier Usually the aftermarket shackle kits are much easier to install then the stockers. I am not sure why in this instance is being so difficult. Maybe because the straps are already connected permanently on one end and dealing with the extra power of the wagon spring?

It’s all about misalignment. Yes this is the heavier spring with more leaves. It’s a bear. electricity physics definition Takes two people to even lift it in place and a third to spin the U bolt nuts. I have it bolted up and the shackle installed on the drivers side after spending all day on it. On the other side, not there yet. electricity pictures information The problem I am having is the forward half of both bushings wants to push out as you drive or press in the shackle frame. The spreader is heavy duty but stressed to the limit. I am afraid its going to bust out of there if I go much further with it. This is one heck of a nasty job, especially on the wagon. I really appreciate everyone’s help! The crescent wrench idea didn’t work because the spring has an outer metal jacket that doesn’t allow the large crescent to grab anywhere.

Philip: "I am having is the forward half of both bushings wants to push out as you drive or press in the shackle frame." Since the rubber bushings on the forward side are being pushed out, would it be possible to insert the the shackle pins through one set of bushings and then squeeze the bushings onto the pins and into the holes on the opposite side?

Other thoughts. It seems that the shackle pins are so tight against the ID of the rubber bushings that all the lubricant is being squeezed out causing binding. IDEA: Try a new lubricant. IDEA: File down the dia. of each pin a few thousands to allow it to slide inside the bushing more easily. IDEA: Ream out the ID of the forward bushings so pin will slide thru. IDEA: Have a helper hold a socket with an extension against the face of the forward bushing at the same time you whack the other side of the shackle. gaslighting There will be kickback but,it might just work a little at a time. IDEA: Fabricate a tool that will fit around the rear end of the pin and fit against the face of the rubber bushing so that it won’t move forward when the shackle is whacked. When you get close you’ll have to remove the tool. IDEA: Use brass or oil bushings. That’s why I made brass bushings. They fit real tight and don’t swell up or disintegrate like the rubber bushings.