Roverklubben – sverige 7 cases movie

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You must make sure that you bolt the alternator to the correct side of the Rover bracket at the front so as the pulley is in line for the drive belt. You will have to go to your local wrecking yard and buy an adjusting bracket that has a curve in it as the plastic one that is fitted to your Rover will not fit the alternator it is not long enough and needs to have a curve in it.

Before installing the alternator look at the back and familiarize yourself with the electrical connections. There are three in all, a 3/16 bolt off to one side with a nut on it, this is the 12volt supply terminal, around the out side edge you will see two spade terminals recessed into the body of the alternator these are marked R = for regulator and F = for field.

One has a large spade connector the other a small spade connector, take the wire with the large spade connector and fold it back on itself and tape it back out of the way, now take the small spade connector and plug it in to the terminal on the back of the alternator marked ‘R’ = relay. Now go up to your original Lucas relay unit and unplug the spade connector marked ‘F’=Field and the spade connector marked ‘W L’=warning light. la gas prices Now you need to join these to wires together with a 10 ohm resister in parallel.

The best way to put this lot together is by using a plastic connector block, as you must make sure that none of these connections touch the body of the car ie. ground. Do not put the resister inside the car behind the dash as it will get warm during it’s operation it needs to be under the hood where it has ventilation. Having made this connection your ignition warning light will now work i.e. when you turn on the ignition the ignition warning light will come on and when you start the engine and the alternator starts to charge it will go out. If it comes on while driving it means that your alternator has stopped charging.

As my 2000 project nears roadworthiness, I’ve noticed something strange. When the steering wheel is at center, there is little free play (a couple of degrees) and the wheel moves smoothly when the front end is off the ground. electricity experiments However, at extreme lock one way or another, I’ve noticed a large amount of play in the wheel (30-45 degrees) where it doesn’t feel like the wheel has anything going on on the other end. Being familiar with rack and pinion steering only (the 2000 being the first car I’ve driven that uses a different system) I’m worried. Is this a sign of impending doom, or is this normal? It doesn’t get in the way of normal driving, just in tight parking lots. Speaking of steering and suspension, is there any hope of taking this car in for a 4-wheel alignment at a major garage chain, or is this something that only a Rover specialist would know how to do?

This is perfectly normal. The steering gear is setup with nearly zero play in the center position. types of electricity tariff When turned to maximum lock you will get a fair amount of play. This is because of the way the steering gear internals are machined. In part this is because the greatest wear occurs in the straight-ahead position. (If you drive 600 000 miles or more you’ll have steering with no play anywhere.

For about 4 years, while I worked at a Rover dealership (’87-93), we had a cam wear problem on 3.5L engines. It dated back a ways (prior to the USA intro), according to many sources, and was common on any engine with the "detox" or "low lift" cams (the NAS ’87-88 3.5L had the low lift cams). To a lesser degree, the other 3.5Ls were affected as well. A lot of cams were warranteed on 3.5L Rover engines from ’87 until the last of those vehicles went out of warranty.

The 3.9, 4.0, 4.2 and 4.6L engines seem immune to the problem to a large degree, due to better designs and manufacturing. In the course of doing an article on cams a few years back, I queried 8 cam manufacturers, including some in the UK, about the problem. I was told it was due to two situations; the small diameter of the cam (which leaves less surface area when the profile is ground) and poor heat treating. Lack of maintenance, internal coolant leaks or subgrade oil made the problem worse. electricity kanji The surface area problem was solved by using more of the material in the blank when the cam was ground and the heat treating was improved.

As to checking, the bad lobes can be identified visually but if you don’t know what to look for by experience, you will only spot it when it gets very bad. The best method with an assembled engine is via a dial indicator. gas in oil pan You will need to remove the rocker arms to do this, as the lifters will bleed down via valve spring pressure and give inaccurate readings. You can use the pushrods to measure from. Put the cam on the center of the heel to zero the dial and then rotate the engine to the peak lift point and record the results. Test each lobe a couple of times until you can dublicate the results exactly each time. Since the hardening is little more than .010-012" thick, if the readings vary more than that, lobe to lobe, you are into the soft stuff somewhere. Also, you can compare the reading to the lift specs in the manuals. If you have a cam out, you can mike the lobes, compareing differences between the lobes or to a new cam of the same grind.

I was curious as to why one engine could be a rip-snorter and the next a dog. I found that only five or six of the engines I tested were at, or close enough to, the factory spec. About a third were advanced a few degrees (up to about 4 degrees- making them the rip-sporters) and the rest were retarded (the dogs) to varying amounts (up to 8 freaking degrees). Going farther, I checked to find where the errors came from and found that every cam I checked was dead on and the end result was that the timing gears were the cause. The keyways were machined incorrectly. After that, I did not trust the factory timing gear. youtube gas laws The few (maybe two) I replaced under warranty (no, they would not replace the units for timing errors unless the engine was grossly effected), I checked for accuracy and swapped sets with the parts dept to get a good set. If the customer was buying, I installed a Cloyes True Roller set.