See ethanol damage up close! the blog at jacks small engines gas pain

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yea, very informative. people have heard of the terms you are describing, but don’t really have a mental picture to go with it, i think that the photos connect them together very well. along with advice about not buying it to begin with, go ahead and pay a little more for good fuel because in the long run, you are gonna pay dearly. thanks alot

I live up in the Ozark mountains.Lots of rocks and clay.Most of my mowers tiller chainsaws are old and used but I put some trearment in every tank of gas and all my old junk runs fine.I have used several things gaslighting but Startron works well.Allso marvel mystery oil also helps with things like my 65 Dodge d ioo pickup.Trearment stuff cost money but is cheaper than a carb,or other repairs.

Thanks for this article! All of my lawn equipment, whether it be the trimmer, riding mower, push mower or blower runs terribly with the ethanol content in gasoline. A neighbor finally told me about a gas station “off the beaten path” back in the farmlands, that sells gas with no ethanol. I make a trip out there every few months and fill up all my gas cans, and the difference in the running of my equipment now is quite noticeable. The ethanol free gasoline costs over $4.00 per gallon (I’m in Mississippi), plus the cost of the 50 mile round trip out to get it, but it’s worth it! I’m sure I have done damage to my equipment prior to finding this gas that has no ethanol, but hopefully it won’t continue now to deteriorate the metal parts. Your article grade 9 electricity unit test answers explained exactly what ethanol is doing to lawn equipment and I really appreciated the opportunity to read it.

It is such a good idea to put a fuel shutoff on all of your large equipment. Shut the fuel off when you are done, and allow the engine to run until it shuts off from lack of fuel. Small equipment such as leaf blowers and tillers should be dumper of fuel, then ran until they quit as well… Great article though. I plan on using this website in one of the classes that I teach.

The effects of ethanol are widely known and are only going to get worse with E-15 . Phase seperation and water absobrbtion are bad enough with E-10 , add 5% more ethanol and you will add more problems . For those of you who dont know , many marinas sell medium grade (89 Octane) ethanol free gasoline for boats , its more expensive than regular pump gas , but I feel its worth it .

Thanks for a fine article. We have a 100 acre farm and so I have over 30 engines to care for, both 2 and 4 cycle and diesel. In over 40 years of working on small engines I have never seen the amount of damage that E10 causes. I have seen brass floats with pinholes, damaged carburetors beyond saving, clogged jets and filters. You name it and hp gas online payment that stuff will attack it. You dont use some tractors every day and consequently when you do, sure enough, you find a plug of water in the bottom of the tank. You can see it in the sediment bowl. A tip is to keep the tank full to minimize condensation from a hot day into cool night. The next best necessary thing to do is to add stabalizer to fresh fuel. The very best thing to do is find a station that sells non ethanol gasoline. Sure it costs more per gallon, a lot more, but it doesnt take much to spend the difference in repair parts and time.

Here is a good example. A friend called and told me his chain saw had packed up. It is a large saw and quite expensive. He had it fixed once, ran two tanks through it and it packed up again. This time the repair facility required that he have the fuel analyzed. He did and here are the results. The pump read E10 (Here in NY State). The actual content of ethanol in the fuel was over 17%! My point here is that even though electricity experiments for 4th graders you think you are buying E10 what you are getting may be something way over that. We, as consumers, are too trusting of these fuel companies to actually give us the product they claim. Switch to ethanol free. Your engines will run trouble free and last a long time, just like they used to.

I just replace a carburetor on a Yard-man (MTD)mower which was a “trash-day” find. Someone had ruined a 2 year old push mower with Ethanol gas. My girlfriend was quick to tell me to “pick it up fast before it’s gone”. I ordered a new carb. on Sunday evening from you folks and had it waiting gas and supply shreveport for me on Wednesday. Nice web site and great service. Thanks!

100% agree with Warren about the use of sta-bil. I also use 92 octane gas and airtight tanks. Installed fuel shutoffs in everything. If I know I’m not going to use machine within a few days, when done using I shut the fuel off and let it run until it stops by itself. Getting fuel shutoffs for each piece was time consuming and depending how you look at doing it, it was a little bit of a pain in the a*s, but have not had any start up problems ever since I put them in, about 5 years now.

One point I would like to add to the very informative video and other posts is also to replace the fuel lines with the best fuel line you can get. If your fuel lines are more than 5-6 years old, they may very well be getting nasty inside, gummy and soft junk which really is not a great thing trying to get thru the carb. Problem with a push lawn mower with a small Tecumseh. It started to run rough and stall. Dropped bowl on carb saw some nasty crud. Looked closer at fuel line and it was all gooey inside. Cleaned carb, replaced fuel line with fuel injector line, found a fuel shut off that would work, not problem since.

I said in the beginning of my post that I use 92 octane with Sta-bil. I’ve been told that it is not great for the valves but also been told it is not a problem. But, when it is cold, it seems gas 87 89 91 like that extra octane makes it easier quicker starting. I compression test all my engines spring and fall,check/adjust valves, sounds like overkill, but I have the equipment and some extra time, and have found no problems with valves by using the 92 octane fuel.

Most gas stations offer 3 grades of gas with only one pump hose despencer. So you fill your 5 gallon gas bloating after eating gas tank with the one hose available. And who do you thing used this pump last. Of course, the guy before you filled his tank with low lead ethanol gas. And how much gas is left in that hose do you suppose? Well, I figure around at least 1/4 gallon of ethanol adultratetd gas goes into you plastic tank before your can even starts getting the super unleaded gas that you want because that hose has to empty before it begins to pump out of the super unleaded supply tank. Right? Think about it.

What I did was put Silicone Grease on all my seals to refurbish a carburetor that was previously leaking on my Tecumseh Snow Blower engine since the E10 Fuel had shrunk the rubber seals and dried them out a little. This seemed to keep it from leaking anymore but do not know how long it will last. I went by the local Small Engine Shop today to get a rebuild kit but it does not contain the O-Rings on the Pickup Tube that injects the fuel into this carburetor the O-Rings were shrunken and the tube fell right out. I rubbed the Silicone Grease on the O-Rings and reinserted it back into the Carburetor. Ran like a charm afterwards.

Silicone grease is glass you will find warnings on all auto manufacturers not to use it anywhere in any fuel flow device. It damages valves and catalytic converters by forming glass on those devices. If you have used it in a fuel flow situation in any device that gas bubble disease has a catalytic converter it is already damaged. I think valves take more to damage but catalytic converters are damaged at first burn because they get coated with fine glass particles in the hot exhaust flame. Don’t use Silicone of any kind in a fuel flow area.