The future of energy generation and storage page 139 aussie stock forums e85 gas stations in san antonio tx

##########

The second problem is that every commercially available product I’ve seen which does this requires that either a 24/7 electricity supply is connected and used as the booster, or that if an off-peak supply is connected the booster be manually operated. grade 6 electricity quiz I’ve yet to see any "off the shelf" product which is able to automatically boost using a separately metered off-peak supply.

If you have time of use (TOU) metering with everything through the one meter (fairly common in Vic and NSW, exists in other states with the notable exception of SA), or if you live in a place where there’s only one flat rate tariff (NT and a large portion of consumers in WA and remote towns not on the main grid on other states) that won’t matter in the slightest since you’ll incur no cost penalty, compared to how you’d otherwise heat the water, when boosting.

Now you’re likely to heat somewhere around 70% of your water using the solar in SA’s climate. Yes everyone knows that SA gets seriously hot and has lots of sun, it’s 1am and outside my house it’s 29.5 degrees right now, but there are also quite a few days with no sun at all and those just happen to be mostly in Winter when the incoming water is coldest thus requiring the most heating.

Technically that can be done but I’ve yet to come across anything "off the shelf" which does it. Whilst you could wire it up quite easily to work that way, any electrician is going to be more than a tad reluctant to be doing so given issues of compliance with Australian Standards, electricity distributor standards and the consequences if anything goes wrong given that the installation contravenes manufacturer’s instructions (versus the law which specifically requires electricians to adhere to the manufacturer’s instructions). Doing this is commonly referred to in the industry as the MacGuyver approach to heating water (a reference to a well known 1980’s TV program for those not familiar) and for good reason. It’ll work but it’s a lot of bits stuck together.

Just in case that didn’t convince you, it gets even worse if you just ask the electricity retailer for a better price. Sign up with Origin, take all the discounts for direct debit, not receiving paper bills etc and you’ll have an off-peak water heating rate that is less than the FIT. In that case diverting solar into the hot water would be completely pointless.

Overall, there are circumstances where the idea of diverting solar to heat water can work. electricity in india voltage If you’re on a flat rate for all electricity consumed and the FIT is considerably lower than the price you pay for power from the grid is one scenario. If you’ve got a truly massive solar system and will never need to boost the hot water is another. If you’ve got Time Of Use metering and a low FIT that’s another. electricity vancouver wa For the majority though the finances aren’t that great.

Tasmania – Tariff 93 is a Time Of Use (TOU) product for all your household electricity including solar feed-in. As part of that you get off-peak rates weekdays 10am – 4pm and 9pm – 7am as well as all weekend. Now just use a simple timer to heat the water 10am – 4pm and your solar will automatically be the priority source with any additional energy always charged at the off-peak rate. Done!

SA – Not available yet but there’s a definite thought about doing something which will look awfully like the Tasmanian approach. Times for the cheap rate are likely to include 10am – 3pm and 1am – 6am. Just heat the water 10am – 3pm and you’ve got your solar being used as priority and backup at the off-peak rate. electricity definition physics Nothign fancy required, just any old electric water heater and a simple timer. Note however this doesn’t exist yet, it’s just at the planning stages.

SA – If you want a battery then AGL still has some heavily subsidised ones available including Tesla Powerwall 2 and LG systems. There are some conditions, like needing to sign up with AGL for your electricity and participate in their Virtual Power Plant program, but they’re offering huge discounts on normal pricing so it may interest some. This is an AGL scheme.

SA – The state government has a battery subsidy scheme available, the rate being $500 per kWh for most and $600 per kWh of capacity for concession holders with a maximum payment of $6000. At present it only applies to systems manufactured in SA, which gives you a choice of Sonnen products only, but next year it becomes broader and others will be available.

Since load will result in the voltage falling, traditionally the approach was always to send out something a bit higher than the standard which used to be 240V and is now 230V. Send out 250 and those at the end of the line will get something between 230 and 240 depending on load at the time with those closer to the transformer getting something higher (but not higher than what the transformer is sending out).

Depending on the location and how much the load varies, it might be a simple case that there is indeed somewhere in the middle which works just fine. For other places though, well there’s simply no one voltage at the transformer that actually works in this scenario. Anything low enough to avoid problems during daytime from solar is too low to avoid problems in winter at 6pm and vice versa, there’s literally nothing that overcomes it.

Part of the issue there is that even before solar, SA had one of the most variable electrical loads of anywhere in the world with weather being the primary influence. Plenty of mild days where no heating or cooling is required but then there’s those days well into the 40’s and likewise nights well down into single figures. So that gives a lot of variation. i have electricity in my body Now add solar on top of that and the situation is that load in the suburbs goes pretty close to zero now on a mild day but the peak hasn’t changed much when it’s hot.

So there are issues yes and if you aren’t getting the expected output from a solar system then I strongly recommend that the mains voltage be investigated (by an electrician unless you’re competent to safely measure it yourself) but as a rule no, you don’t need to buy someone’s overpriced device to control your supply voltage and it most certainly won’t save you a fortune in any normal residential situation.