Towing without weight distribution… – page 2 – sunline coach owner’s club 5 gas laws


I myself have not seen that same setup on the Ford Super Duty trucks. Ford for electricity jeopardy sure has a boat load of spring packages, just I’m not sure they have a coil spring and air bag setup on the Super Duty’s. I tried to find that feature and all I can find is rear leaf springs on that heavy of a truck. I even looked at the 2019 F150 and all it says is leaf springs with solid axle. I’m not saying they do not have it, but I would be shocked if they had that on a Super Duty.

For sure, if a truck is equipped with an air bag setup and auto leveling, that has to be taken into account with setting up WD. If not, then when the truck starts up and the thing auto levels, it can undo the correct WD settings if not setup correct. Most of those systems you have to compensate on the WD settings for the Auto level so after it does it’s thing, WD is still effective.

That said, I have read electricity bill saudi electricity company of some folks who have the newer Blue Ox sway pro WD hitch where told to turn the electronic anti sway off as it interfered with going off before the BO corrected the truck wiggle. This is not all setups of the BO hitch, just some. It seems in some setups, the truck will wander slightly in certain windy conditions and the electronic system kicks in starting to brake the trailer before the BO snaps the rig back straight. Again it all depends on the trailer and truck. I know several folks with the BO and they have no issues.

And I hear ya on keeping the camper. I do not know if we will ever part with our T310SR. I have way too much into it that does not come on a new camper. Upgraded axles, self-adjusting brakes, shocks, commercial AC unit, the rear storage boxes, 16 LT tire upgrade, the frame reinforcement, and the list goes on. While we may someday get a different camper, ours is still in such electricity sound effect mp3 free download great shape it may end up being a summer place at a local state park. I may become a camp VIP if I ever run out of projects to do.

You will/should notice a difference. These new 1/2 ton PU’s, ride like a cream puff. Any brand. The difference is with the cargo capacity and riding heavy when towing. This is why they make heavier suspension trucks, to handle the weight. When we had our T2499, I started out towing it with our 2002 Tahoe at the time. The truck and camper were stable and that was the reference I had. When our 2003 2500 Suburban came, towing that same camper was a global shift in truck stability. I felt it just driving out our 300 ft. driveway at the time. That was a great match.

Then came the T310SR. We used the gas vs diesel generator 2500 Burb for about 3 months before the F350 came. While the Burb did OK on the flatlands of central OH, I was sitting at the limits of the truck. I had to limit camper cargo to make sure I did not overload it. I knew it was not a long term working situation for me. When I hooked up the F350 for the first time, that same exact feeling of stability came heading down the driveway. OMG yes, I did the right thing again! From 130 wheelbase to 156 WB and from 3/4 ton to 1-ton suspension made a noticeable difference and I can load the truck and camper as need gas near me now.

The tires heads up on new tires. Something is going on in recent years than say, 6 to 8 years ago. I am now on my 3rd set of tires on the F350. The first set came of tires came with the truck approx. dates late 2004. (truck was used at ~ 28K miles). The truck was rock solid with those OEM tires. The 2nd set now 2009, hitched up and headed out on a 500-mile camping trip and no issues, same tire brand, and model. I think there were only about 100 miles on the tires before the trip.

Then in 2017 I again get all new tires. Same brand, same model. The first camping trip out the truck was no longer rock solid. The front end wanted to wiggle around. Having been through changing tire brands and having a very negative result, I stuck electric utility companies in california with what I knew worked. After checking the hitch, tire pressures etc. I started doing more research. Guys are talking about new tires and the truck being squirrelly. They had different brands then mine, but I got it too. 3,500 miles later the truck came back to being rock solid. Something about the newer rubber compounds or the methods they mold them by, the friction of the tire to the road seems to be less. After a few thousand miles, I can feel the truck come back to what it used to be. Finally, at around 3,500 miles whatever was different, it wore off.

You are correct, the DC needs the WD bars loaded to work the most efficient. How much mp electricity bill payment load to they need, well it all depends Many factors in play here. It used to be published that Reese did not recommend the DC for tongue weights under I recall like 400#. They sell the 600# bars and DC, so 400 and up works. That said it is all about how stable the camper is, the truck stability etc. and how much the DC has to work at keeping the camper in line.

To the need for a loaded truck before setting the WD, yes this is correct. Let me explain why. When you load the truck bed with no camper hitched, the entire truck will settle. Weight in the truck bed aft and forward of the rear axle is added to the rear and front axle. How much weight moves where depends on how close the cargo is to the front axle. But both axles are taking the on added weight.

Weight aft of the rear axle in the truck bed starts working on removing some weight off the front axle. However, the truck bed is short behind the rear axle in comparison to what is ahead of it. So the natural loaded weight on the front and rear axle are what it is, and that’s OK assuming you are within the axle and GVWR limits. They are not so worried about oversteer with truck bed weight and the truck electricity generation definition front end getting heavier, it is when you hook up a camper on the tow ball some 65” behind the rear axle. The amount of rear axle weight added and the amount the front axle loses is a much larger difference when towing. And there is a large rolling mass behind the truck pushing the truck which affects the dynamics different than just truck cargo weight alone. You cannot go into jackknife without a trailer.

And then there is the truck receiver ratings. The receiver is sized to work on trailer TW, and not necessarily a lot of truck bed weight. While it can and does move some bed weight, they do not want you trying to shift a lot of bed weight forward that came with electricity laws in india setting up WD with an unloaded truck bed. When the truck is loaded, you have fender heights and axle loads that the truck carries naturally for its own cargo weights. The trailer on the ball, only needs it’s TW compensated for. So setting the WD on a loaded truck makes that setup doable.

Oh and one thing I forgot to mention. Make sure you ask the dealer to give you a copy of the Ford sourcebook on your new truck. Ideally, get it before ordering, but for sure get it before taking the truck. It’s a “Ford thing” if you never la gasolina lyrics heard of it. The dealers have these and they have a lot of neat truck info in them on the 2500 and up trucks that do not show up anywhere else without doing a major dig for it. For sure, get one. It is about 1/2” thick, 8 ½ x 11 paper. They are not going to just give you one if you do not ask.