Volvo c30 timing belt replacement (2007-2013) – pelican parts diy maintenance article gas monkey cast


Replacing the timing belt is one of the most important maintenance tasks for the five-cylinder Volvo T5 engine. As the engine ages and mileage climbs, an old, worn-out timing belt can possibly break, causing catastrophic engine damage. A broken timing belt typically causes the valves to hit the tops of the pistons, bending the valves and/or destroying the pistons. A broken timing belt can indeed lead to the complete destruction of the engine.

To avoid this fate, replace the timing belt every 60,000 miles. If you live in a dry climate (like the American Southwest), or if you don’t drive your car often, then I recommend replacing the belt more often. In dry climates, belts can become brittle and worn much more quickly. If your car sits for long periods of time, the belts take on the bends and shapes of the pulleys while the car is parked. Both circumstances increase the likelihood of belt failure.

One other thing to consider is replacing the water pump while you have the timing belt removed. The water pump is driven directly off the timing belt and even then, access is a bit difficult. It would also be very frustrating to replace the belt, only to have the water pump go out a few days later. See our article on Water Pump Replacement for more information.

Getting to the timing belt requires the removal of many components in the engine compartment. Jack up the car and remove the left front tire as well as the front wheel liner. You’ll also need to remove the air filter housing, the starter, the engine belts and the coolant expansion tank. See our articles on Jacking up Your C30, Front Wheel Liner Removal, Air Filter Housing Removal, Engine Belt Replacement, Starter Replacement and Coolant Expansion Tank Replacement for more information.

Comments: Could you leave the old belt in place and cut it in half along the rotating axis using a sharp knife leaving 1/2 to 1/3rd of the belt in place, then slide the new belt on half way and then cut off the remaining old belt. This would speed up the process and negate any timing issues? By leaving part of the old belt on the timing would always be correct.

Comments: I’m in the process of changing the timing belt on my wife’s 2011 S40 T5. I have the cam locking too and crankshaft locking too. Is there a write up on changing the cam seals? As my wife’s cars are leaking down the block. If not, how do I remevobe the cam gears and replace the seals. Is setting the cam gears difficult to do with the VVT?

Comments: This article mentions nothing about rotating the crank a quarter turn and back in order to release the tension from the VVT system. This is an essential step and must be performed before the old timing belt tensioner is released prior to taking the old belt off.

The P1 Chassis (C30 and others) use two VVT units on both cams. They are controlled by oil pressure via two control solenoids.. There is no way to rotate them independently of the camshaft once the cam locking tool is installed. The VVT unit has an inner and outer hub with vanes inside. Kinda like a torque converter.

Comments: When you get the crank pulley off and put the pulley bolt back on,do you have to turn the crank a 1/4 turn forward and back from tdc to "lock" the vvt units and avoid a cel when it’s all back together? Or will this be avoided as long as everything is timed correctly and "locking" the vvt units is not necessary?

Followup from the Pelican Staff: If timed correctly you should be Ok. I usually install the belt, then tension it, install pulley and recheck marks after rotating the engine. That way I catch an error before reassembly. – Nick at Pelican Parts