Want to build a trout pond selecting a site pond boss forum electricity resistance questions

###########

The 55 to 65 degrees applies to browns, rainbows, and brooks although brooks would be happier if the water stayed in 50’s. Browns are hardier tha then the other two electricity magnetism and electromagnetic theory pdf but for best health and success staying between 55 and 65 is your best bet. I have brooks in an approximately 5000 sq. ft. pond right now that do O.K. in the 55 to 65 temp range too.

How do you plan on keeping the water cool enough in summer? Are you going to depend on a cool deeper layer when the pond stratifies? If so, you are gambling and will probably lose due to loss of oxygen in that deeper layer later in the summer. If you were to get by with a cool deep layer that has enough oxygen, feeding would be dicey as you wouldn’t be able to see them to feed them. I use floating feed so I can monitor their feeding. You can get by, by not feeding but growth is slower, survival is less, and you can only hold so many pounds of fish vs. fish that are fed pellets.

I run 45 gpms of aerated well water at about 52 degrees 24/7 into my 88 by 59 foot pond in summer that has a steep drop off to 9 feet to keep warming to a minimum. I mix the water column with diffuser in the center on the bottom 24/7 except when air temps climb above 80 during the day. Some use a surface aerator but I prefer the diffuser as I believe it breaks down the wastes produced gas after eating dairy by my fish and prevents an anoxic layer on the bottom. As soon as temps go below 80 F. in the evening and/or the sun gets low in the sky I turn the compressor back on. This is to prevent too much warming and mixing when air temps are hot.

As far as size of your pond being big enough, the question is not if the pond is big enough but can you keep it cool enough with at least 6 ppms of oxygen? Trout have been, and are being raised in barrels, small circular tanks, raceways only three feet deep etc. My pond is just on the edge of being cool enough or too warm with the 45 gpms of well water I run into it. It could actually be smaller and I would be O.K. But if my pond was much smaller I believe I would have gill irritaion electricity cost per kwh south africa problems from suspended iron that comes out of the well at slightly over 2 ppms. It is reduces to less than 1 ppm in the trout pond as it settles with the inflow.

As far as what to add from what Cecil said that would be awful tough. The reason that i use a surface aerator is because i add non aerated well water to my pond during the hottest period of the summer. Typically July and the first two weeks August. This keeps my temps down arround 60 degrees in the lower 1/3 of my 30,000 square foot pond. The reason Cecil mentioned that i would respond is because i used a diffuser system in the deepest part of my pond last year and had a total Rainbow electricity reading comprehension die off. What happened was i added non aerated well water to my pond to cool it and at the same time running the diffuser. The diffuser did not come close to providing the huge amount of oxygen that i needed. Once i restocked last fall and put in a Kasco 2 horse aerator it solved all my problems. Not one fish lost due to lack of oxygen. As i see it you have two options. Do exactly as Cecil has instructed you. Run aerated well water in your pond 24/7 and put in a bottom diffuser, or due as i have done. Run well water in and use a top la gasolina water splasher. Otherwise you will be going to the trash with lots of dead fish. Cecil got me info and some supplies on how to aerate my well water and i will do this next year. If you choose not to aerate well water run your water as long as it takes to keep temps low. Run your surface aerator only at night to keep from heating water during the day. I have had zero problems doing this all summer and it has been 90+ for 6 weeks straight. During the Fall and winter i turn my bottom diffuser on at night to keep and open hole in the ice and also helps to break down the nutrients. As far as expense in electricity the 2 horse surface aereator costs me $34.56/ month. The well running in the summer will run me about $26.00 this is a 3/4 horse submersible. The bottom diffuser will cost $17.75/month. Obviously most of the year all i have on is the diffuser other than about 3 months of the year when i run the splasher and well. Not that expensive wd gaster cosplay. My cost is 6 cents per kw/hour. Here is how you figure the cost. Take your volts x amps=watts. watts x 1000 =Kilowatts/kilowatts x running hours = kilowatt hours x your local rate. Other than that listen to guys on the forum and esp. Cecil as he is incredibly knowledgeable on the subject.