What’s a good e36 clutch electricity 1 7 pdf

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First for some back story. It’s a 1998 BMW 323is with over 150 thousand miles on it. Bought it two years ago for almost 3k. I’ve been driving it since, but a couple of months ago the throw out bearing took a shit and it’s been sitting on my car trailer ever since. I usually switch off every week between my truck and my BMW, so this car is like a daily driver to me (this car saves me on gas compared to my truck). However, I do take it auto crossing in Socal once in awhile and through some canyon runs. Car is completely stock, spent a nice penny on just keeping it running. I have replaced and upgraded all the cooling and AC components, hoses, and ect. As well as control arms and bushings.

What I’m looking for is a clutch kit that would be good for daily driving, but also handle the abuse of the track. I’ve peered through Tuner Motorsports website for some of their performance clutch kits. I was locked on getting their HD clutch kit with a LWF (Light Weight Flywheel), but for 1.3k I decided there might be some cheaper options that would be more suited for my application. ESC tunning also had some clutch kits with LWFs for seven hundred dollars up to a grand, but I’m unsure of the quality. Lastly I looked at some UUC which ranged in price between the last two providers. While looking at some forms on clutches it seemed like UUC stage one or stage two clutch kits seemed to be the most popular (another form on here did say that they had the stage 1 parts break and preferred the stage 2). Driving in Socal after work usually means stop and go traffic so as long as the clutch pedal pressure isn’t drastic I’ll be fine.

I already planned to replace all the shifter bushings, transmission mounts, upgrade the master cylinder to a M3 version, replace the slave cylinder, replace the hoses, main seal (flywheel/engine seal), throw out bearing, exhaust gaskets, and the pivot bearing. I’ve also heard that I should replace the engine mounts, flex disk, and the clutch fork but I am unaware if it’s really necessary? I’m unaware if I’m missing anything esle from that list. I know this whole prcosess might put me out two to three grand….

Any help or constructive criticism would be greatly appreciated. I’m in no way a master technician and in that way I do not know all the math that goes into setting a vechile up. I do most of my own work ranging from oil changes to replacing shocks and coils, but I consider this a bit more advanced to head into with my usual YouTube and college knowledge. Between work and college I haven’t been able to get all my ducks in a row and prepare for this, but I just got a Smog notice for it…yay California.

I already planned to replace all the shifter bushings, transmission mounts, upgrade the master cylinder to a M3 version, replace the slave cylinder, replace the hoses, main seal (flywheel/engine seal), throw out bearing, exhaust gaskets, and the pivot bearing. I’ve also heard that I should replace the engine mounts, flex disk, and the clutch fork but I am unaware if it’s really necessary? I’m unaware if I’m missing anything esle from that list. I know this whole prcosess might put me out two to three grand….

On a side note. I’ll be doing this on Jack stands under my porch. I do not have a garage nor the funds for a car lift.Good to see you’re replacing all the right stuff. Have you considered a braided clutch line? Go OEM for TOB, and get a brass pivot pin (a few companies make them, they’re all the same). This is also a good time to do input/output seals on the trans.

Just make sure you get the car as high as possible (while being safe). I did my clutch job on jackstands- it really isn’t that bad. Get some long extensions for the top bolts, and if you can, drop the trans crossmember and lift the front of the engine (w/ mounts disconnected). It’ll make it way easier to get to those top bolts.

First for some back story. It’s a 1998 BMW 323is with over 150 thousand miles on it. Bought it two years ago for almost 3k. I’ve been driving it since, but a couple of months ago the throw out bearing took a shit and it’s been sitting on my car trailer ever since. I usually switch off every week between my truck and my BMW, so this car is like a daily driver to me (this car saves me on gas compared to my truck). However, I do take it auto crossing in Socal once in awhile and through some canyon runs. Car is completely stock, spent a nice penny on just keeping it running. I have replaced and upgraded all the cooling and AC components, hoses, and ect. As well as control arms and bushings.

What I’m looking for is a clutch kit that would be good for daily driving, but also handle the abuse of the track. I’ve peered through Tuner Motorsports website for some of their performance clutch kits. I was locked on getting their HD clutch kit with a LWF (Light Weight Flywheel), but for 1.3k I decided there might be some cheaper options that would be more suited for my application. ESC tunning also had some clutch kits with LWFs for seven hundred dollars up to a grand, but I’m unsure of the quality. Lastly I looked at some UUC which ranged in price between the last two providers. While looking at some forms on clutches it seemed like UUC stage one or stage two clutch kits seemed to be the most popular (another form on here did say that they had the stage 1 parts break and preferred the stage 2). Driving in Socal after work usually means stop and go traffic so as long as the clutch pedal pressure isn’t drastic I’ll be fine.

I already planned to replace all the shifter bushings, transmission mounts, upgrade the master cylinder to a M3 version, replace the slave cylinder, replace the hoses, main seal (flywheel/engine seal), throw out bearing, exhaust gaskets, and the pivot bearing. I’ve also heard that I should replace the engine mounts, flex disk, and the clutch fork but I am unaware if it’s really necessary? I’m unaware if I’m missing anything esle from that list. I know this whole prcosess might put me out two to three grand….

Any help or constructive criticism would be greatly appreciated. I’m in no way a master technician and in that way I do not know all the math that goes into setting a vechile up. I do most of my own work ranging from oil changes to replacing shocks and coils, but I consider this a bit more advanced to head into with my usual YouTube and college knowledge. Between work and college I haven’t been able to get all my ducks in a row and prepare for this, but I just got a Smog notice for it…yay California.

I already planned to replace all the shifter bushings, transmission mounts, upgrade the master cylinder to a M3 version, replace the slave cylinder, replace the hoses, main seal (flywheel/engine seal), throw out bearing, exhaust gaskets, and the pivot bearing. I’ve also heard that I should replace the engine mounts, flex disk, and the clutch fork but I am unaware if it’s really necessary? I’m unaware if I’m missing anything esle from that list. I know this whole prcosess might put me out two to three grand….

On a side note. I’ll be doing this on Jack stands under my porch. I do not have a garage nor the funds for a car lift.Good to see you’re replacing all the right stuff. Have you considered a braided clutch line? Go OEM for TOB, and get a brass pivot pin (a few companies make them, they’re all the same). This is also a good time to do input/output seals on the trans.

Just make sure you get the car as high as possible (while being safe). I did my clutch job on jackstands- it really isn’t that bad. Get some long extensions for the top bolts, and if you can, drop the trans crossmember and lift the front of the engine (w/ mounts disconnected). It’ll make it way easier to get to those top bolts.